Luis Buchinho’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection really reflected the feel of the season. Popping colours, abstract palm motifs and exposed flesh, meant you could practically feel the heat of the sun as the models worked their way down the catwalk. Ombre lime greens and acid yellows evoked sun-saturated beaches and the dappling effect recurring throughout the collection conjured images of shady palm trees.
Buchinho uses structured tailoring to great effect; just enough to accentuate the female form, but not so much that we lose the sense of carefree summer nights that he creates using flowing fabrics and a well-coordinated colour palette. There was also a heavy emphasis on knitwear throughout the collection, which is typical of Buchinho’s designs and this led the collection into an edgier, more urban direction.
Hints of metallic that ran through the knitwear were a nice contrast to the acid-pop colours of some of the more light-hearted pieces. His use of geometric shapes juxtaposed fabrics in voile and silk which billowed behind the models as they walked. Perhaps Buchinho’s most-deserved praise is that despite this new direction he takes, Buchinho makes it recognisable as his own, which is no mean feat when pairing metallics, acids, knits and silks. Highlights of the collection include exquisite two-tone, silk trousers, tailored cut-out jackets as well as those fabulous sandals worn by the models throughout.